TASMANIAN TRIP‑FEBRUARY 2004‑ TIDAL RIVER (VICTORIA) TO LITTLE MUSSELROE BAY(TASMANIA) BY SEAKAYAKS..

Richard Condon‑ Natureline Mermaid 5.2
Ian Soutar‑ Mirage 580

Scribe‑ Richard Condon.

·         INTRODUCTION

From the time my wife Sharon & I purchased our Natureline Mermaids from Kerry Richards, I had a strong desire to paddle across Bass Strait - it was always going to be just a matter of time. And so it was on a trip to Hinchinbrook Island in 2002 with a couple of buddies, Ian Soutar (with whom I had gone to Kindergarten) and Andy Cox, we planned to paddle to Tasmania in February 2004. By mid 2003, another mate and experienced paddler, Craig McSween had planned to join us also. However for business reasons both Andy and Craig had to subsequently pull out. This left Ian and I to carry the torch and the following is a log of our adventure.

·         DAY 1: TUES 17th Feb. 2004: TIDAL RIVER to REFUGE COVE (37 Kms)

Departed McCrae 8am for drive to Tidal River & on arrival, reported to the Wilson’s Promontory Ranger's Office for a weather report and to organise the Ranger to open the gate to give us access to the beach. Low tide caused us a long, difficult haul of our heavily laden kayaks to the choppy surf. Launched about 1pm with low tide expected around 2.47pm

Despite a favourable tide for about 2 hours, it was a hard slog to Wattle Is. mainly due to the turbulence caused by rebounding seas against the rocky shoreline. As we neared the lighthouse, stiff S.W. winds gave us challenging but favourable sailing conditions. We hoisted sails and shot across and over the waves in scary quick time. (My GPS recorded a speed of 15km/hr) Once around the lighthouse we jibed our sails and headed NNE across Waterloo Bay for Refuge Cove at a gallop. We arrived at Refuge Cove around 6pm having attained an average speed of just over 7km/hr.

·         DAY 2: WED. 18th FEB. 2004: REFUGE COVE to HOGAN IS. (50 kms)

Arose at first light, (6am.) & set the GPS for S39 12.9', E146 59.4'. We were under way by 8.45 on a 125 degree heading. A 0.5km/hr tide ran against us for the first hour or so but we were making steady progress.

While there was little wind early, it picked up from the S/W as the day wore on creating a 2 metre sea for us to contend with. With around 15 kilometres to go the wind backed WSW giving us the opportunity of a welcome sail for the next 13 kilometres or so.

The route into the little bay on the northern end of Hogan Is. (where we would camp) was fraught with hazards. We had to pick our way between the main

island and a couple of its tiny `satellite' islands. Wind against tide and current created 3 metre standing waves whose tops crashed over our kayaks as we punched our way into the calm though windswept waters of the bay. We landed adjacent to some ancient cattle yards having failed initially to see the Stackhouse Hut across the other side of the bay. The journey had taken us 8.5hrs. ‑at a mediocre average of some 6km/hr. We were however well pleased with ourselves and being some 50kms off shore, had the distinct feeling that our journey was now irrevocably under way.

That evening we hiked to the summit of the hill beyond our camp to contact Jenny via Ian's CDMA `phone for the all‑important weather forecast. Predicted 20kn - 30kn.winds heralded a lay-day. Descending the hill in the dark, we had to take great care not to step on tiny Fairy Penguin chicks exiting their burrows, perhaps mistaking us for their parents who would soon return from the seas with dinner. It is amazing how these little creatures, so clumsy - looking on land, venture so far uphill to dig their burrows.

·         DAY 3: THURS. 19th. FEB. 2004: HOGAN ISL.

On arising we discovered that the predicted strong winds had indeed eventuated with a base 25kn.wind gusting to near 40kn. After twice testing the conditions we accepted the inevitability of an unplanned lay day & decided to relocate our camp to the well used Stackhouse Shack on the other side of the bay. We signed the famous Hogan Log Book and retired for the night.

·         DAY 4: FRIDAY 20th. FEB. 2004: HOGAN IS. to ERITH IS.(37Kms)

Weather forecasts last evening were still unfavorable. Early l0kn - 15kn N/W winds would increase to 20kn - 25kn then intensify still further to 25kn - 35kn. from WSW. Two to three metre seas were predicted early which would climb to3m - 4m later.

We were none too pleased at the thought of a further 24 hours on Hogan so we resolved to rise at 4am to try to take advantage of any window of opportunity, predicted early morning gentle winds would afford us. As luck would have it we awoke around 1.45am to a somewhat eerie calm in the bay and on wandering to the open N/W facing headland, we discovered both wind and seas were moderate there too. This was indeed the "window" we had hoped for and by 3.30am we were heading for Erith Is. which we believed would be the "jewel" of our trip.

After many GPS reference checks, light finally dawned around 6am by which time we had covered some 15km. or so of our 37km. journey. During the next hour or so we saw dolphins, shy albatross and various species of petrel while at the same time we became more and more apprehensive of the ever leadening skies to starboard. Those forecast 25kn.- 35kn winds looked imminent. With around 13km. of our journey to go, the wind did indeed pick up allowing us to hoist sail and make good ground to within a few kms. of our destination.

We had, almost by default, steered a course for the gap between Erith Is. and Dover Is. This turned out to be somewhat stupid on our part as the tide was by now pushing us south of our original 120 degree course. As we intended entering Murray Pass from the north, this left us with a soul‑destroying 2 - 3km slog to make good the top of the island and across to the pass. We had in reality reached the Kent Group by 9.30am, meaning that we had covered the 37kms. in 6hrs. The extra 3kms to Bulli Bay (West Cove ) took a further 1.5 hrs. However on entering Bulli Bay, we were delighted to note the substantial looking Bush Heritage Hut which was destined to have a couple of somewhat salty squatters in residence that night. By 2pm the predicted 35kn. winds were like bullets across Bulli Bay lifting water in sheets of spray and foam from the sea and swirling it through the air. We were however safe on land.

·         DAY 5: SAT 21st.FEB. 2004: LAY DAY KENT GROUP

From our Retreat in the Bush Heritage Hut we had a good view across Murray Pass to the compound on Deal Is. and the towering lighthouse on the hill beyond. During the morning we explored the beautiful Bulli beach then paddled across to the passage landing adjacent to the old Deal Is. jetty which lies directly below the compound. No sooner had we landed and donned dry clothes then we were greeted by Willie & John Watts who were voluntarily caretaking the compound for 3 months. This delightful couple could not have been more welcoming or hospitable, insisting we have a shower and a cuppa. ( The former of course may have been in their own self interest as we had not showered for some days) While we were sipping on our coffee, Willie quietly prepared a delicious potato and cheese `graton' which she shared with us and a chap (whose name escapes me) from the Ketch 'VEGA' which had landed to resupply them. John later gave us a tour of the historic compound buildings then both he and Willie accompanied us back to the "yaks" for our return to Erith. Kinder people you could not meet. Upon returning to Erith we packed our kayaks and paddled the 8kms. to Winter Cove on the east of Deal Is. in preparation for our assault next morning on the Deal Is. to Killiecrankie leg of our trip. Weather forecasts were not great (15kn. to 20kn.)westerlies early, increasing to 20kns - 25kns later in the day; marginal at best. We hoped however for another early `window' such as we got on our Erith Is. run.

     
NASA Photo  

DAY 6: SUNDAY 22nd.FEB. 2004: DEAL IS. TO KILLIECRANKIE FLINDERS IS.

I guess subconsciously, this was the pinnacle of our trip. The leg the guts of our individual training runs were all about Ian's dusk to daylight paddles on an often angry Port Phillip Bay, my long runs, especially the 52km.night paddle along the surf line from the Gold Coast Seaway to Jumpinpin and back in somewhat warmer waters than Ian would have experienced on Port Phillip.

We opted for a 3am start in winds already around 15kns.on 1.5metre seas. Dark skies, lumpy seas and my reliance on my reading glasses to see, made navigation by GPS difficult. By the time I got organised to read the screen, my forward momentum would be non existent and my boat would have slewed off course. This would cause the pointer to jump through about 90 degrees making a `fix' difficult and subsequent confirmation damn near impossible. We decided therefore to return to shore and re‑group for a fresh assault at 6.30am when dawn broke.

`Take 2' saw winds of 15kn - 18kn from the SW and as the light improved and as time passed we saw Wright Rock on the horizon, some 17kms from where we started. As we approached the “Rock", winds were tending WSW at 20kms plus and were rising, as were the waves. There was however no going back, given the wind and wave direction. We took a brief break for a drink and snack in the lee of the Rock and watched the myriad seals that were either lazing on the rock or sliding gracefully into the grey uninviting waters. We were soon paddling again, now aiming a few degrees to windward of a distant Craggie Is., our next waypoint.

Seas were now climbing alarmingly to 5metres plus with the wind still rising. We felt strong though and except for the odd rogue wave, the boats and we were handling the conditions admirably.. By the time we were adjacent to Craggie Is., the seas were monstrous 6 - 7 metres with their peaks breaking across our yaks forcing us to constantly brace between strokes but our destination was now in sight some 23kms distant.

When we finally approached Killiecrankie Bay, we were greeted by breaking surf and a vicious NE current running at around 4kns. (Interesting that the charts don't show this, though the locals say it is commonplace ) The beach is safe and sandy to the south, hazardously rocky to the north, with its northern extremity flanked by rocky outcrops, relieved only by two tiny bays that afford the only safe landing alternatives in this vicinity. While I managed to land on sand via breaking surf half way down the Bay, Ian was forced beyond the Bays northern extremity .He skilfully manhandled his heavily laden kayak into one of two narrow rocky inlets in the vicinity and carried it to a rocky ledge above the high tide line, occasioning only minor damage to his kayak and none to himself,a mighty effort at the end of a 60 odd kilometre paddle. It would have to stay put until the next day when tidal conditions would allow us to retrieve it.

With nothing more we could achieve today, we wearily trudged to the local campground and secured a small but warm and comfortable but for the night, neglecting food in favour of sleep. We would regroup next day.

·         DAY 7: MON.23rdFEB 2004: (LAY & RECOVERY DAY)

As usual I arose around 6am and decided to explore the bay and surrounds for clues as to the best way of recovering Ian's kayak from its temporary harbour. We established that while there was no direct way to it via the beach, it could be accessed via an inland route followed by a bush bash to the cliff line. We concluded the best approach was for Ian to go inland and for me to paddle to the sandy cove below where it lay. A simple repair with duct tape allowed us to relaunch the Mirage after carefully manhandling it to the second of the two rocky inlets just around from the cove. It was a difficult lift with two of us with an empty kayak. What Ian had managed the day before was amazing. We now nonchalantly paddled back to camp and took the rest of the day off, memories of the previous days adventure seeming somewhat surreal and distant.

I should mention that the campground at which we stayed was owned by two kindly ladies, ex schoolteachers. They are experimenting with an olive grove as well as developing the campground. They charged us just $20 for the use of the but for the two nights we were there. To us at that time it was as good as the Hilton!

·         DAY 8: TUES.24th FEB.2004: KILLIECRANKIE TO EMITTA (34KMS)

It was good to be under way again with a casual 9am start. Unlike the paddle into Killiecrankie Bay, the paddle out was an easy affair. A 270 degree bearing for 1.5kms allowed us to then assume a 214 degree course past Septical Is. for Cape Frankland, now under sail with a kindly 15kn NE wind on our tails. This was more like it. As we rounded the cape and entered Marshall Bay, `Murphy' appeared, stiffening the wind and shifting it easterly‑almost on the nose. No more easy riding that day. We were, however making good speed as we passed Roydon Is. and landed on the NW point of Marshall Bay for a break and to check Ian's boat. We actually missed Emitta, and landed 2kms or so further toward Settlement Point in a lovely cove whose large boulders afforded us protection from the rain that now started to fall. We set up a most comfortable camp, ate a hearty meal and retired in the warming knowledge that we would now surely achieve our goal of the Tasmanian coast. The difficult parts were now over

·         DAY 9: WED 25th. FEB. 2004: EMITTA TO TROUSERS POINT (VIA WHITEMARK)

We awoke refreshed to overcast and threatening skies with light rain starting to fall again. I remember thinking what a lottery the weather was. An easy sail for the first 2 kms or so ended abruptly as our course swung from 220 degrees to the 126 degree bearing for Whitemark with the wind from 90 degrees, sailing was over for now.

We were paddling hard but making good speed, reaching Whitemark around 1pm with ‘real’ food and a beer or two on our minds. On the way we had passed another shark, this time only 6 - 7ft long and very lazy in that he totally ignored us. The bird life along the shoreline approaching Whitemark was magnificent. Ducks, Black Swans and many Cape Barron Geese honking like ships on a fog bound sea.

While we had a greedy feast at the excellent local bakery, we were denied a beer from the pub as it was temporally closed for the funeral of a local identity. The owners of the bakery seemed amazed that we had paddled so far and asked us to write a précis of our trip so far for the local paper, reputedly the oldest community paper in Australia.

We called the girls from the local phone box and so Ian was able to wish Jenny a happy birthday. Somewhat inflated around the plimsoll line after our bakery stopover, we were now ready for the relatively short trip to Trousers Point with a favourable NE wind at our backs. We had a ball sailing this leg and were elated to see the beautiful Trousers Pt. campsite with its tables and protective casuarinas nestled in the lee of the majestic Strezlecki peaks. A Soutar inspired fire added a great touch.

·         DAY10: THURS 26th. FEB 2004: TROUSERS POINT TO PRESERVATION IS. VIA THUNDER & LIGHTENING BAY, CAPE BARRON IS.

Given we had made good time thus far despite the harsh conditions & given we had built in two lost days into our itinerary we resolved to go a bit easier and not aim for Clarke Is. today but to make instead for Thunder & Lightening Bay where we believed the campground to be as good as that at Trousers Point. We arose at 6am & got away around 8am. The weather was great, our first real sunshine in 10 days and in addition, the winds were favourable. We sailed for a few kilometres before seeing another kayak with a sail exactly the same shape as mine. Who else but the legendary Laurie Ford paddling his trusty `Sea Leopard'. We introduced ourselves after he had enquired who it was that was `playing in his backyard' and after the obligatory photo or two we proceeded on our respective ways. We half sailed, half paddled on and finally passed to seaward of Long Is. across the western end of Lady Barron Is. We proceeded on to what we believed to be Thunder & Lightening Bay but found no special camp site, in fact what we did see was fairly uninspiring. So, despite having unpacked our boats, we repacked them after a brief poke around & proceeded for Preservation Is. which is located at the western end of Armstrong Channel and according to Laurie Ford had a rather good but in which to camp. It certainly was. And while this five star abode was obviously not intended for our use, it was without locks and was beckoning. We had a hearty meal & reflected on the 32kms. we had put behind us since setting off that morning.

·         DAY 11: FRI 27th FEB 2004: RESERVATION IS. TO A POINT 4.95 KMS WEST OF LITTLE MUSSELROE BAY. VIA REBECCA BAY CLARKE IS.)

We arose at 6m to an idyllic sunrise over Clarke Is to the east. Conditions were balmy and glassy. We had a leisurely paddle to Rebecca Bay, on Clarke Is. and admired its spectacular rock formations. From our vantage point on the beach we could see mainland, Tasmania just 23kms away and somewhat inviting.

Given these good conditions, and knowing of the notorious currents and conditions Banks Strait could dish up, we resolved to head for Swan Is. some 4kms. from our ultimate destination. We decided to do this despite the fact that it was over an hour later than what was the optimum departure time for the trip at hand which is of course dictated by the ever changing and often troublesome currents in Banks Strait. It was in fact now 10.45am. Ideally we should have left prior to 9.30am to cross this day. We calculated the tide would run SE until 11.15am, South until 12.15am, then move westerly at over 2 kns. for some hours.( This latter estimate we subsequently learned was very conservative) Our new destination of Swan Is. was some 20kms. with a rumb‑line bearing of 160 degrees.

Due to its proximity to mainland Tassie however, we had great difficulty identifying what in fact was Swan Is. Visually it merged with mainland Tasmania. It was not for some 2 hours that we were able to positively identify Swan. Is and by then the tidal current had pushed us much further westerly than we had predicted .A brief trial paddle directly into the current convinced us our best course was to simple paddle across the current and head for the nearest beach on the mainland. This we did and around 1.5kms. offshore encountered nasty looking breaking waves barrelling sideways with the current at great speed. They had no predictable pattern and to get through them was like playing Russian Roulette. I remember thinking as I got my timing exactly wrong... "So this is the Bass Strait sting in the tail."

We finally landed on a lovely beach with plenty of combustible driftwood just 4.95 kms west of our ultimate destination. We encamped for the night, ecstatic we had achieved our goal. Breakers crashing on the beach not 25 metres from our tents lulled us to sleep.

·         DAY 12: SAT 28th FEB 2004: 4.95 KMS. To MUSSELROE BAY.

Awoke 7am and on studying tidal information resolved that we should get away by 10am to take advantage of what would by then be an easterly flowing tide. Too easy. We arrived at Little Musselroe Bay by 10.45am after an easy paddle landing near the entrance to the estuary at the western end of the bay. After exploring the alternatives, we set up camp and showered (thanks to a couple of kindly shack owners) and kicked back waiting for our "retrieval team" to arrive.

On reflection, we had paddled over 320kms. across Bass Strait, sampling on route some of the conditions it is so renowned for. That we had just undertaken a sensational adventure and achieved our goal was just starting to sink in along with the realization that this had been the trip of a lifetime. Both of our kayaks had stood up magnificently. I had not had to modify the Mermaid in any significant way to undertake the trip. Nor did it require any repair or adjustments along the way‑a testament to Kerry Richard's workmanship and design abilities.

You could never ever say that you conquered Bass Strait, you would more correctly say that conditions were such that you got through. Ian and I had indeed ‘got through’; and had done so with reasonably little trouble and where there was any, it was quickly fixed with the sort of teamwork 60 years of mateship allows. Throughout the trip, it was as if we were connected with an invisible line that gave us both great reassurances. I will reflect on this adventure over the years to come with great pleasure and know that Ian will too. To him I simply say "thanks, buddy, what’s next?"